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Some oil on your skin is expected. But if your sebum glands are overly enthusiastic, it might be time to look at what you’re putting on your face. Finding what works and nailing the best skincare routine for oily skin is a key factor in bagging a killer, clear complexion. It doesn’t need to be lengthy or overly long. It should be targeted, consistent, and tailored to you.
If you’ve ever wondered what causes oily skin, the best products to use, or what ingredients to avoid, we asked medical professionals and skincare sages to drop the science.
What causes oily skin?
First off, you need to know what causes oily skin before you commit to a routine. Oily skin occurs when the pores underneath produce too much sebum (science speak for oil). If left unmanaged, it can leave excess grease. And, when the oil and dead skin cells mix, you're more prone to breakouts.
“Oily skin is primarily due to overactive sebaceous glands, which can be influenced by genetics, climate, and skincare habits. External factors like pollution, excessive humidity, and harsh skincare routines can also aggravate oiliness,” says Dr. Suha Kersh, a cosmetic physician, and specialist in aesthetics and skin health at 23 MD London. “Management requires balance – using gentle yet effective cleansers, non-comedogenic (which means it doesn’t clog the skin) hydrators, and lightweight mattifying products. Treatments such as polynucleotides, hydrafacials, and LED therapy can help regulate oil production and improve skin texture.”
What lifestyle factors can affect oily skin?
One of the key things to keep an eye on is diet. “Consuming excess dairy, refined sugars, and high-glycemic foods can trigger inflammation and increase oil production. Hydration is equally important, as dehydration can cause the skin to overcompensate with more oil,” says Kersh.
Dr. Martin Galy, a lead physician in hormone treatment and skin rejuvenation at 23 MD, puts stress up there as one of the top aggravators for oily skin. “Regular exercise, proper sleep, and mindfulness techniques like meditation can help regulate stress hormones. Additionally, gut health plays a major role in skin function,” says Galy. “If the microbiome is out of balance, it can trigger systemic inflammation, which can worsen acne and oily skin. Optimising gut health with prebiotics, probiotics, and a diet rich in fiber can support clearer skin.” As a starter, try to limit processed foods and introduce oily fish like salmon into your diet. Ensure you’re eating enough fruit and veggies, too.
What products should you apply to oily skin?
“I recommend choosing skincare products that are specifically formulated for oily skin. Avoid oil-based or alcohol-based formulas and opt for gentle products that are formulated by dermatologists. They should be labeled ‘non-comedogenic’ which means they won't clog your pores or contribute to acne breakouts,” says AM Aesthetics co-founder and skincare expert Alexandra Mills. It’s best to start off with a foaming cleanser to remove excess oil and dirt from the skin. Then throw a chemical exfoliant into the mix. “Salicyliuc acid (BHA) is a gold standard for keeping pores clear,” says Kersh.
If you have oily skin, applying moisturiser might seem counter-intuitive, given you're adding further moisture. But even with oily skin, it’s important to keep it hydrated. If your skin is dry, it will produce more sebum, and potentially clog up your pores further. Then top up with an SPF that is non-comedogenic. SPF protects your skin from harmful UV rays, which can cause your skin to age quicker.
“Even oily skin needs hydration and UV protection to maintain a healthy skin barrier,” says Dr Mia Jing Gao, a London-based consultant dermatologist. “At night, incorporating a retinoid can help regulate oil production and improve skin texture. Retinoids reduce the size and activity of sebaceous glands, making them a great product for managing oily skin. Over-the-counter options include retinol, while stronger forms like adapalene or tretinoin are available by prescription.”
How often should you practice your skincare routine
As a general rule, you should be cleansing and applying targeted products to your face twice a day. “It’s important to cleanse after exercise to remove sweat and prevent clogged pores,” says Gao. Once you’ve figured out what works for you, try not to chop and change it too much. Like a push, pull, legs split, it’s best to keep things consistent. “It can take at least three months to see results with topical skincare,” says Gao. Once you’ve locked in the products, trust in the process.
Things to avoid
Alcohol-based products should be on your skincare blacklist, too. They can strip the skin, which will encourage it to produce even more oil. Be wary of petroleum and mineral oil. “Known as occlusives, they may sit on the skin and trap oils, potentially leading to breakouts,” says Mills.
Checking out for pore-related pitfalls isn’t always straightforward, and will require you to check the ingredients of your products. Keep an eye out for sodium lauryl sulphate which can often be found in cleansers. This can be tough on your skin and increase your oil production. Another thing to be wary of is overdoing the skincare. As good as it can feel in the moment, you could be doing more harm than good. “The most common mistake is over-cleansing. Many people think that stripping away all oil will help, but this actually triggers a cycle of excess sebum production,” says Kersch.
And while a targeted topical skincare routine can go a long way in keeping your oily skin in check, it should be a part of a wider self care routine. “Many people rely solely on topical treatments while neglecting stress management, diet, and hormonal health,” says Galy. “Chronic inflammation, poor gut health, and hormonal imbalances can all contribute to persistent oiliness, regardless of how good the skincare routine is.”
